Step by Step Guide to Starting a Saltwater Aquarium

The marine world is a fascinating and beautiful place and the prospect of having a small piece of it right in our homes can seem like the most obvious thing to do. However, there can be a million questions that can arise in your mind once you seriously start considering it. Today, we will demystify everything there is to know about keeping a saltwater aquarium. This guide is just going to cover saltwater tanks and fishes as that is where most people entering the saltwater hobby would begin. We will cover corals and invertebrates separately.

Keeping a fish only saltwater aquarium can be an incredibly rewarding experience in addition to being a great conversation starter and a truly breathtaking focal point for your home from an aesthetic standpoint. It can also end up being the source of various nightmares and a huge loss of money. It all boils down to how well-equipped you are in terms of the necessary know-how to ensure that you start off in the right manner and continue on in the best way possible and that is the primary purpose of this article. We will explain everything that you need to know without cutting any corners so that you can enter this mesmerizing world and enjoy it and not be horrified by it. So, without further ado, let us begin.

• Is a saltwater aquarium right for you? 
  • Accepting responsibility for your fish and animals.

 

The first thing that anyone interested in saltwater aquariums needs to figure out is if the hobby is right for them. Seeing a well-setup marine tank or going for a dive in a coral reef might tempt you to take the plunge but a saltwater tank is more than a piece of furniture that you can just buy and place in your house and forget about. The first thing that you need to know is that an aquarium is not an accessory for your home but a responsibility. It is a small ecosystem that completely depends on you for survival. Any neglect can be catastrophic and even fatal for the inhabitants of the tank. A lot of work and effort goes into making the tank a hospitable environment for the fish and you should be willing to take up that responsibility.

 

Just to give you an idea of the work involved, you will be responsible for the following

• Proper nutrition for the fish: This includes the diet as well as the regularity of feeding
• Maintenance and upkeep: Ensuring that the tank is a viable ecosystem where the fish can live and thrive. This will involve getting your hands dirty once in a while as you have to clean the tank as well
• Equipment: A saltwater tank is so much more than just the tank itself. You need equipment like filters, aeration units, lighting, etc.
• Monitoring: This is perhaps the biggest point of failure when it comes to saltwater aquariums. You could have the best equipment but if the tank isn’t monitored on a regular basis to ensure that all the water parameters are fine then it is only a matter of time before your fish end up dead. You need to devote some time on a very regular basis to do this.

Does all this seem like too much? Then this hobby is probably not for you. None of this should feel like a chore and that can only happen if you are really passionate about the hobby. It is also important to keep in mind that passion alone isn’t enough to keep your fishes alive. A lot of the things mentioned above also require pretty significant monetary spending. Ensure that your budget can accommodate this hobby.

Above all, it is important to understand the gravity of this responsibility. You are the person who is in charge of the well-being of these living beings that can feel pain and suffering just as we do. A small slip on your part can mean the difference between life and death for them. It is not something that you can give up after a few months. So, be very clear in your mind about what you are getting yourself into and only proceed if you are excited by it all instead of it appearing to be something of a burden.

 

If you are still reading then chances are that you are indeed someone who is passionate enough and ready enough to enter the fascinating world of fishkeeping. The next step is understanding the differences between freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

 

• Freshwater vs Saltwater Aquariums:

It goes without saying that an overwhelming majority of home aquariums that you will come across would be freshwater aquariums and there is a very good reason behind that. Freshwater aquariums are far less complicated and freshwater fish are hardier. It is not just the lack of salt that makes freshwater aquariums different. It is an entirely different type of ecosystem. Water bodies containing freshwater are generally a lot smaller and can undergo changes in the water parameters like temperature and pH quite regularly and somewhat rapidly. This makes freshwater fishes a lot more capable of handling such changes in the aquarium. The marine water bodies, on the other hand, are massive because of which the water parameters stay more or less consistent. This means that saltwater fish are used to a much higher level of consistency and stability in the water parameters. This makes everything from acclimation to maintenance a lot more sensitive than it is in a freshwater tank. To put it simply, the margin for error in a saltwater setup is very narrow and even small fluctuations for short periods of time can wreak havoc in your aquarium.

You have to be a lot more committed and the setup should have multiple redundancies planned in case there is an equipment failure. Proper and regular monitoring is also vital to ensure that problems are identified early on and fixed before they cause irreversible damage to the aquarium and its inhabitants. It also means that you have to ensure that in case you are not available to fulfill these responsibilities, you have someone else as a backup who can execute these tasks in your absence. Any vacations or prolonged absence from the home will need proper planning to ensure that your fish are properly taken care of at all times. There are many professional services that can help at such times but the bulk of the responsibility is still on you. It is a highly rewarding hobby that does require a bit of dedication from your end on a pretty regular basis.

 

Let us know finally begin our saltwater fishkeeping journey.

 

• Find the perfect spot in your home:

 

When it comes to aquariums, one thing that catches many people off-guard is often the weight of the whole thing once it is filled with water. Water is quite heavy which means that even a smallish aquarium can be difficult to move once it has been set up. That makes it imperative to think ahead when it comes to choosing a spot in your home for your aquarium.

As we alluded to in the previous section, your primary concern is to ensure that the water parameters stay as consistent as possible. This means that the spot you choose should not get any direct sunlight. This can cause the temperature to fluctuate while also promoting the growth of unwanted algae on the different glass surfaces.

Then comes the ease of viewing the aquarium. It is a thing of beauty and therefore should be located in a place that can be viewed from many different locations in the house.

It should also be conveniently located near power outlets and should have easy access to a source of water as well as a sink or water outlet of some sort.

The floor should also be structurally sound enough to be able to handle the weight of the aquarium. Finally, it should be placed in an area that receives moderate to low traffic. Too much activity around the aquarium can stress out the fish which is never a good idea. Other things like flashing bright lights should also be avoided near the aquarium. To sum it up, the ideal place for a saltwater aquarium should be

• Away from direct sunlight such as near a window
• Strong enough to support the aquarium’s weight
• Visible
• Accessible and convenient for power supply, water changes, and other maintenance tasks
• in an area with moderate to low traffic and devoid of things that would stress out the fish

Now that we have gotten most of the pedantic stuff out of the way, let us talk about the exciting stuff.

• Choosing Your Aquarium 
  • What size?

 

So, you have decided to finally take the plunge and buy a saltwater tank. The first step is determining the ideal size of your aquarium. The size of the aquarium can be looked at from two viewpoints – the volume and the dimensions. Before delving into the details of these two factors, let us approach this from a more general nature. In the hypothetical world where money is not a concern, determining the size would be very simple – just go for the biggest aquarium that your house can accommodate. Since that is not how things work in real life, the best way to approach this is by determining the maximum amount of money that you can spend responsibly. If there is a scope of expanding the budget further by saving up for a few more months then do so. We know that it can be difficult to wait once you have made the decision to get a saltwater aquarium but you will thank us later. This is because, when it comes to these aquariums, it is almost always a case of ‘the bigger the better’.

A bigger aquarium offers many advantages. Contrary to popular belief, a larger aquarium is easier to maintain. This is because it can house more water which as we mentioned earlier keeps the water parameters more stable. Another advantage is that you can house more fish and have plenty of room for expansion in terms of the number of fish in the future.

All this, of course, does not mean that you cannot have a saltwater tank if you are on a tight budget. The absolute smallest aquarium that we would suggest is 30 gallons but anything above 55 gallons is preferable and it is always a good idea to wait until you can afford a larger aquarium instead of being restricted to a small aquarium that is difficult to take care of and that can potentially sour the entire hobby of fishkeeping for you.

Next comes the important and often overlooked factor – dimension. Since the vast majority of aquariums are rectangular, we will base our thoughts on that. In simple terms, how long wide, and tall should your aquarium be? Ideally, the aquarium should be long but not too tall or wide. It should be such that the fish can swim in all directions with ease and without bumping into any of the sides. You could also go for some of the fancier shapes like a circular tank or one that is polygonal but these are usually much more expensive, rarer, and more problematic to house but the core principals remain the same.

Ideally, the aquarium should be between 18-36 inches tall, 18-24 inches wide and the length is really up to you. If it is too deep then the lighting won’t penetrate the water column completely which doesn’t look all that good and can be a problem if you plan to house corals in the future. It will also make setup and cleaning quite troublesome as well. If it is too wide, then fish that are close to the back surface of the aquarium will appear distorted spoiling the aesthetics of the aquarium. Any narrower or shallower will be too restrictive for the fish and they will feel skittish and ill at ease thus drastically reducing their lifespan.

In short

 

• Go for the biggest aquarium you can afford
• Wait if you can save a bit more money
• Choose a tank capacity of at least 30 gallons but go for 55 gallons or more if your budget can accommodate such a tank
• Opt for a tank that is between 24-36 inches tall and 18-24 inches wide

 

• What type? 

Aquariums generally come in two main types. Those that are made of glass and those that are made of acrylic. Let us take a detailed look at both.

 

This was the only option during the initial days of the hobby and is still used quite frequently. The main advantages of glass include lower cost, ready availability, and better at being scratch resistant. Its main drawbacks comprise of higher weight and propensity to shatter into a million sharp pieces when broken. Glass is structurally weaker as well which means that thicker glass and more bracing is needed for the same volume of water. Acrylic, on the other hand, is a more recent entrant into the world of aquariums. It is stronger and can be easily molded into many unique shapes. This has given rise to aquariums without any seams as well. They are lighter and break up into large pieces with blunt edges when they shatter. The main downside of using it is that acrylic is more prone to scratches and is more expensive.

 

So, which one is ideal for you? It totally depends on you. If you can afford an acrylic tank and can ensure that it does not get scratched easily then it is the option to go for. If you want the biggest tank for your budget and don’t mind the extra weight then a glass tank is ideal for you. Here is a summary of both these types:

 

Glass Aquariums		Acrylic Aquariums
Advantages	Disadvantages	Advantages	Disadvantages
Affordable	Heavier	Lighter	Expensive
Readily available	Weaker	Stronger	Not so readily available
Higher scratch resistance	Breaks dangerously	Breaks in a safer manner	Lower scratch resistance
Best for smaller and medium-sized tanks		Best for larger tanks

 

 

• Select a stand:

 

That brings us to another element that often becomes an afterthought but is quite important. You want the aquarium to be placed at a height that is easy to view and easy to access for feeding and maintenance. This means that it has to be placed on a stand. The stand is very important as it has to support the weight of the aquarium, which as we have mentioned, many times, is quite heavy, while also adding to the aesthetic appeal of the entire setup. You have three main choices when it comes to a stand for your saltwater aquarium.

 

Iron stand: This is the most cost-effective and robust option. It is easy to get an iron stand tailor-made for your aquarium. Just ensure that it can safely support at least one and a half times the weight of your aquarium. It should also be properly painted and finished to avoid damage due to rust. The top should be even and should be covered with a sheet of plywood or something similar with Styrofoam placed on top of that. Placing your aquarium on top of this Styrofoam will ensure equal distribution of weight thus preventing cracks and leaks. This method will leave the bottom exposed which means that you will have to figure out some way of hiding all the equipment that would go underneath the aquarium unless you can figure out a way of placing the equipment elsewhere out of sight.

 

Wooden stand: If you have a slightly higher budget then you can opt for a wooden stand. This will allow you to have cabinets that can store all the equipment and supplies out of sight. You can also have the stand ornately carved or finished to further enhance the aesthetic appeal of your saltwater setup. Again, it is crucial to ensure that you have a level surface and that the entire structure is stable and strong enough to support at least 1.5 times the weight of your aquarium.

 

Sturdy furniture that you have lying around: If you have a sturdy table or any other piece of furniture with a flat surface on top then you can use it as well. It will save you some money. Just ensure that it can support the weight criteria we mentioned above. Also, use plywood and Styrofoam in between the aquarium and the surface of the furniture to ensure even weight distribution.

 

• Choose a hood:

 

The final piece of the puzzle when it comes to the physical elements of the tank is the hood. An aquarium needs a hood for the following reasons:

 

Aesthetics: A covered aquarium looks bigger and more complete. It also keeps things like lights and wiring out of sight, thus giving the aquarium a much neater appearance.

 

Protecting the fish: It keeps stuff from falling into the tank that can be dangerous to the fish. This can include anything that can alter the chemical balance of the aquarium or something that the fish can swallow that can get stuck in their digestive tract. It will also keep pets and children away from accessing the aquarium water. Another plus side to having a hood on your aquarium is that it will keep the fish from jumping out of the tank and meeting an early and unfortunate end.

 

It Helps keep water parameters stable: Water will evaporate at a much more rapid pace if it is left exposed to the elements. It can also cause the water to lose or gain heat quickly. All of this can lead to fluctuations in the water parameters which, as we have already discussed, can be highly detrimental to the fish. It also stops the water from splashing outside which can be dangerous.

 

• Filters

 

Let us now move on to perhaps the most important step in this journey and that concerns the life-support system that will ensure that your aquarium is a hospitable place for your fishes and one of the most important components that helps in this regards is the filter and that is what we will take a look at next.

 

• Why filters are important

 

We had briefly mentioned this earlier. The aquarium is an ecosystem in itself and one of the aspects of maintaining the balance in this ecosystem is by ensuring that a proper filtration system is in place that will take care of the different types of waste that will be constantly produced by a living and thriving aquarium. If these waste products are left to accumulate, it will lead to the aquarium becoming dangerous for the fish. Eventually, all that will be left would be a tank with some dead fish.

 

• Types of filtration

Filtration in a saltwater aquarium can be divided into three main types or stages – mechanical, biological, and chemical. Let us take a closer look at each type.

 

Mechanical: This is perhaps the most straightforward stage of the entire filtration process. This stage is all about removing the particles that are floating around the water such as uneaten food, detritus, and other forms of debris. This is usually achieved by using some type of porous material such that will trap these particles. A good mechanical filter will have multiple layers with each layer becoming finer so that even the smallest particles are filtered out thus allowing the water stays clear. This filtration also ensures that organic matter doesn’t collect in large quantities and causing chemical spikes.

 

Biological: While the water might appear clean after mechanical filtration, it is still not fit enough to be hospitable for the fish. The marine ecosystem also includes many microbes in the form of beneficial bacteria that break down harmful chemicals like Ammonia and Nitrites into Nitrates. We will look at this in more detail later on. For now, just know that this side of filtration is equally important and the filtration system you use should be conducive to biological filtration as well.

 

Chemical: This is somewhat similar to mechanical filtration in a saltwater aquarium. It consists of using chemicals like activated charcoal to absorb dissolved gases and very fine particles. Their efficacy and benefits are debated but in our personal opinion, they can be beneficial to saltwater aquariums when used in the right manner which we will discuss in the next section.

 

• Types of filters

 

This is where the sheer number of choices available can make things astoundingly confusing. You can get one of the many commercial ones or build one yourself but they more or less work along the same lines. They will have some form of a filter media that will take care of the mechanical filtration. Over time, these filter media will also become home to the beneficial bacteria that will take care of biological filtration. Other parts of the filtration system would include a pump to keep the water flowing from the aquarium through the filter and back into the aquarium again. The more sophisticated filters will have additional chambers for different types of filter media and more features. Let us take a look at the different types of filters commonly available and help you choose the one that is the best for your aquarium.

 

Internal filters:

These are, as the name suggests, filters that sit entirely inside the aquarium.

 

Corner or box filter: This is the most basic form of filter you can get. It is highly popular in the world of freshwater aquariums and is also used in low-budget saltwater setups. This usually consists of a plastic enclosure that has water inlets at the front, an air intake tube and an exhaust tube. Filter media is placed inside the enclosure. The air-intake tube is connected to an air pump that, as the name suggests, pumps air into the enclosure which then comes out in the form of air bubbles. This creates a vacuum inside the enclosure that sucks in water from the aquarium and passes it through the filter media and the filtered water is sent out back into the aquarium through the exhaust tube.

So, what is the answer to the big question – can you use it in a saltwater aquarium? It is a resounding no. It is just too inefficient to handle the filtration needs of a saltwater system. Since the waste basically sits inside the aquarium itself, unwanted debris can leak back into the tank. It doesn’t provide enough surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow properly either which means that biological filtration will also take a hit. Above all, it is a pain to clean and maintain this type of filter. Even though this is the most affordable type of filter you can get, it has everything else going against it and thus not at all suited for a saltwater tank.

 

Sponge filters: This can be seen as the next evolution of the box filter. It features an even simpler construction. It basically consists of the inlet and exhaust tubes surrounded by a large sponge usually circular in shape. The working principle is the same. Air is supplied to the filter by an air pump. This creates a vacuum inside the filter pulling water inwards and thus forcing it through the sponge which then captures the debris in the water. The main advantage of a sponge filter is that it offers a lot more surface area and thus is more conducive to the growth of beneficial bacteria. Thus, a mature sponge filter will be excellent at biological and mechanical filtration.

Would we suggest it for a saltwater aquarium though? Again, it is a ‘no’. A sponge filter has its uses. it is a great filtration system for a quarantine tank and can be a great addition to a sump but it is just too aesthetically unappealing to be used in your main saltwater tank.

 

Undergravel filter: This is perhaps the most enduring form of filtration system that can still be used today. It doesn’t use any special media but the gravel in the aquarium itself as the filter media. Filter plates are laid along the bottom which is then covered up by the gravel. The filter plates will also have some sort of mechanism to be connected to an air pump. The working principle is somewhat similar to corner and sponge filters. Air will flow into the undergravel filter and come out in the form of bubbles. This creates a vacuum under the gravel and water is sucked in through it. This provides mechanical filtration to a certain degree. The undergravel filter plates offer an excellent home for the beneficial bacteria and this is one of the best ways to provide biological filtration to an aquarium as the entire bottom surface can be utilized for this purpose. It is also quite inexpensive to install even in large aquariums.

It is not perfect though. As you would have guessed, all the debris will collect over and between the gravel which has to be cleaned out regularly. This can be a problem if you have decorations or you plan to keep corals in the future. It also tends to be quite noisy. Again, we wouldn’t recommend an undergravel filter as the only filtration system in your tank. You can use it as a supplementary system. Instead of using an air pump, you can use a more modern version of the undergravel filter that can be connected to a powerhead. When used alongside another filtration system, an undergravel filter will ensure proper water circulation while keeping the debris confined to the lower part of the aquarium.

 

Internal power filter: This has become quite a fad among people who build really affordable setups. It is essentially a corner filter with a powerhead attached to the top. This makes it better at pulling in water and a higher volume of water can be filtered. It is quite cheap and easy to install and use. It also usually comes equipped with different types of filter media designed to take care of all the three types of filtration. However, we do not recommend it either. It can get clogged up quite easily and its efficiency can drop dramatically. It is, however, a good backup filter that you can use on a temporary basis if there is an issue with your main filtration system and you need time to fix it. Just make sure to put some of the mature filter media from the main filter into it before using it.

 

External filters:

 

All the filtration systems we have taken a look at so far had one thing in common. They were mostly placed inside the aquarium. Let us now take a look at some filters that mostly occupy the space outside your aquarium.

 

Hang-on-the-back filters: This is a very efficient way of filtering an aquarium and one that has become very popular these days. It is, as the name suggests, hung from the back wall of the aquarium. It comes equipped with its own motor. It will have a U-shaped intake tube and a simple exhaust pipe or spillway. The two will be separated by the filter media. This filter media will be composed of some type of sponge, or floss for mechanical filtration, ceramic rings or balls for biological filtration and activated charcoal for chemical filtration. The motor will suck the water in through the intake tube and pour it into the chamber containing the filter media. Once the water passes through the filter media, it makes an exit at the outlet where gravity takes over and dumps the water back into the aquarium. Some such filters will also incorporate a wheel into the outlet portion to improve aeration (something we will look at in detail later).

The advantages of such a system are many. It is the neatest form of filtration system that you can get as only the intake valve is situated inside the aquarium. It is also easy to clean and maintain. Not to mention the fact that you won’t have to spook your fish every time you need access to the filter. It is one of the best options for small saltwater tanks. It is quite affordable but with larger tanks, they tend to be somewhat inadequate.

 

Over-the-top or Box filter: This is the more robust brother of the hang-on-the back filter. It is still quite simple in function. A powerhead sits inside the aquarium attached to one of the vertical walls. This is connected to a box that sits on top of the aquarium that is filled with the filter media. There is an outlet at the bottom of the box. The powerhead sends water to the box through a pipe. The section of the pipe that is inside the box has many holes in it so that the water is spread out over the filter media. This water passes through the filter media and then falls back into the aquarium through the outlet. The filter media will have different components designed to take care of all three types of filtration.

It can handle mid-sized aquariums with ease and a couple of them can be adequate for larger tanks. It also sits neatly away from sight. The powerheads tend to be black and thus only visible if you have a bright background. They do have one disadvantage. Since they sit on top of the aquarium, they can block the lighting system creating a dark area directly underneath them. This can have different visual effects and whether you like it or not will come down to individual taste. These are pretty affordable too.

 

Cannister filters: This is perhaps the most popular and most recommended form of filtration system out there for good reasons. It is quite efficient, the filter media can be customized based upon the needs of the aquarium, and it sits neatly away out of sight. It achieves this efficiency by essentially creating a pressurized region inside the canister. It is connected to the aquarium with two pipes. One acts as the inlet and the other as the outlet. Water is sucked in through the inlet. It disperses through filter media and collects in the center of the canister from where it is pumped back into the aquarium. As the pump is situated inside the canister itself, it does not take up any valuable space inside the aquarium and since the whole filtration process takes place under pressure, it is a lot more efficient. Another advantage offered by this system is flexibility. The inlet and outlet pipes can be placed pretty much anywhere in the aquarium and that can increase the efficiency of other filtration systems that you might be using like an undergravel filter.

If you want a straightforward filter that is easy to maintain and take care of then the canister filter is the way to go. There are many excellent models available out there. They are dependable and quite efficient as we mentioned. They are more expensive than the other filters we have talked about so far but they have become a lot more affordable than they once used to be. If you are totally new to fishkeeping then we would recommend the canister filter as your main filtration system.

 

Trickle Filters: There was a time when canister filters used to be quite expensive and not so readily available. This is when do-it-yourself options became very popular among serious aquarists who wanted a very efficient and powerful filtration system for their aquariums without having to break the bank. This was how trickle filters came into existence. The good news for you though is that you do not have to go the DIY route as many manufacturers now make them commercially. Whether you go the DIY route or the off-the-shelf route, all trickle filters work on the same principles.

A trickle filter can come in many different shapes but it will essentially have two compartments. Water is delivered to the trickle filter either through a bulkhead or some sort of an overflow mechanism. This water passes through some form of a diffuser that distributes the water evenly over the entire surface area of the filter media and slows it down forcing it to trickle down the filter media (hence the name). This then passes into the second compartment from where it is pumped back into the aquarium. A major portion of the trickle filter does not have any standing water. This improves the exposure of water to the air substantially in comparison to other filtration systems. It is also very efficient because of the large surface area that is available for the filter media. The second compartment can also be used to house heaters and protein skimmers which will save valuable real estate in the actual aquarium itself.

If you want the very best solution for your tank, especially one that is fish only then a trickle filter is the way to go. It is quite easy to maintain and can also be upgraded as the bioload (number and size of fish) increases.

 

Live rock and live sand: This is an excellent way of filtering your aquarium naturally. The names are misnomer here as neither the rock nor the sand is alive but they house millions of tiny creatures and microbes that aid in the filtration process. These microbes and critters will take care of the biological filtration. It will also make the fish feel at home. You can use either or a combination of both and it ultimately boils down to the type of look that you are going for. You will, of course, still need a primary filtration system that will take care of mechanical and chemical filtration.

 

Here is a small summary of everything that we mentioned about filters above

 

Internal filters
Type	Advantages	Disadvantages	Best for
Corner or box filter	Simple and cheap	Not effective in a saltwater tank	Nothing in the saltwater hobby
Sponge filter	Simple and good biological filtration	No chemical filtration	Small quarantine tanks
Undergravel filter	Value for money and large surface area	Can get clogged up easily and no chemical filtration	Use as a supplementary filtration system
Internal power filter	Good efficiency	Not great for long term use	Temporary backup solution
External filters
Type	Advantages	Disadvantages	Best for
Hang-on-the-back filter	Simple and efficient. Neat appearance	Underpowered	Small aquariums
Over-the-top box filter	More efficient	Blocks light	Mid-sized tanks
Cannister filter	Best all-round performance	A good one can be a bit expensive	Most saltwater tanks
Trickle filter	The very best and most versatile	Setting up can be difficult	All saltwater tanks
Live rock and live sand	Excellent biological filtration	No mechanical or chemical filtration	As a secondary filtration system in fish-only tanks

 

 

A few additional things to remember about filters:

 

Fluidized bed filters: This is purely a biological filtration system. It is basically a container that hangs on the outside of your aquarium and contains very fine media such as sand on which the beneficial bacteria can grow. It can be beneficial in large tanks but if your main filtration system already provides decent biological filtration, using a fluidized bed filter can be overkill

 

Diatom filters: Diatoms are fossilized hard-shelled algae and are porous in nature. These pores, however, are very small and thus they work too well. If you continuously in a saltwater setup, it will remove most of the beneficial bacteria as well. It can be used for about 15 minutes after every water change to polish the water.

 

Clean or replacing the filter media: This can be a cause for confusion for new hobbyists. By cleaning filter media, we do not mean getting it back to a ‘like new’ condition. This will decimate the colonies of beneficial bacteria growing on them thus bringing biological filtration to a screeching halt. It is also for the same reason that you should never replace all the filter media at once. For cleaning, just rinse the filter media gently in the water that you have removed from the aquarium when changing water. When replacing, only replace half of the filter media at any given time. In short, ensure that there is a good amount of mature filter media in your aquarium at all times.

 

To sum it up, use a combination of either cannister filters or trickle filters with live rock or sand for best results

 

• What is a sump and do you need one?

 

One common topic for discussion among saltwater aquarium keepers is if they need a sump. This can be doubly confusing to someone who is just starting out as a sump is not something everyone is usually familiar with. So first, let understand what it exactly is and what it does before figuring out whether you need it or not

 

The easiest way of describing a sump is like an extension of the aquarium itself. In many ways, it is like the basement of a house. Ideally, all you would want in your aquarium are the fish. However, to keep them alive you will need quite a few equipment. Some of these we have discussed already and we will later on. The point is, if all of these are placed in the main aquarium itself, it will give everything a cluttered look and make it look way too artificial. You could come up with clever ways of hiding them but you can only do so much. What if there was a way to keep your aquarium clutter-free but still have it hooked up to all the equipment it needs? That is where a sump comes in. It is basically a smaller tank that is connected to the aquarium that sits out of sight. It houses the various filtration systems, protein skimmers, heaters, reactors, etc. It can also be used to top off the water in the aquarium.

 

Sumps usually have a capacity of 10 to 20 gallons and are available commercially. However, it is pretty straightforward to make one yourself too. Now let us answer the common query – do you need a sump in your saltwater aquarium? For that let us go back to our original analogy. Can you live in a house without a basement? Yes, you can although a house with a basement is more convenient. It is the same here. If your aquarium is small then you do not need a sump at all. If it is large then a sump will help but it is not compulsory. As we mentioned earlier, it makes your main tank a bit more pleasing aesthetically while also making maintenance a bit more convenient. It also increases the total volume of your system which we already know is always an advantage. It all comes down to personal preference and your budget. If your budget cannot accommodate one, you can still make your aquarium thrive but if you can get one then do so as there are really no downsides to having a sump apart from needing a bit of extra space underneath the aquarium.

 

• Protein Skimmers

 

The normal filtration processes used in saltwater aquariums take time as most of the organic matter has to undergo biological filtration. This organic matter can include things like the uneaten food, fish waste, and the remains of any dead organisms. Protein skimmers help immensely here by removing them without the need for waiting for these organic matters to be converted into something else. There was a time not long ago when protein skimmers were niche equipment meant only for public aquariums or the really high-end home aquariums but these days, it is a lot more affordable and readily available and in our opinion is a must-have for anyone with a saltwater tank.

 

Protein skimmers or foam fractionators are devices that use air bubbles that are constantly pumped into the water to remove organic matter. The air bubbles are fine in nature and the organic matter adheres to these bubbles which are then pushed to the top of the device where it collects in the form of a foam and from where it can be removed periodically. Protein skimmers are broadly classified into two and they are as follows

 

Co-current:

This is the old school method of protein skimming in aquariums. In it, the water and air bubbles flow in the same direction. These are usually of two further subtypes and the difference comes in the form of the mechanism used to introduce the air bubbles.

 

• Airstone: This is the simplest form of protein skimmer there is. It uses an air stone to supply the air bubbles. The airstone is placed at the bottom of the tubes and as the air bubbles rise, they force the water to move in the same direction. The organic waste clings on to the bubbles and rises to the top.

 

• Venturi: One problem with the airstone equipped protein skimmer is that it has to be placed inside the aquarium which can take a lot of space and the hood might need some modifications The venturi equipped protein-skimmers mitigates this shortcoming. It can be placed on the outside and it produces finer bubbles and is thus more efficient

 

Counter-current:

 

This is the fancier and more modern version of the protein skimmer. The major difference here is that the water and air bubbles flow in opposite directions. This improves the interaction between air and water thus improving efficiency. Water is pushed in the downward direction the tubes using a powerhead and air is pumped up using an airstone.

 

Do you need a protein skimmer?

You most certainly do. As we have mentioned before, a saltwater aquarium needs stability in water parameters and a protein skimmer goes a long way in achieving that.

 

Which one should you get?

If your tank is smaller then go for a co-current protein skimmer. Larger tanks will benefit from the counter-current type. As for the exact method used by the protein skimmer, all of them work quite well. Go for the highest capacity skimmer you can afford and have space for.

 

• Aeration and Oxygen

 

Fish, just like us, breathe in oxygen and breathe out carbon dioxide and this breathing takes place in the water itself. Water naturally has oxygen dissolved in it and as the fish use this oxygen up they replace it with carbon dioxide. In the oceans, the original oxygen-carbon dioxide ratio is maintained by the exchange of gases at the surface and since the oceans have a ginormous surface area, this exchange is usually not an issue. In the home aquarium, however, the actual surface available for this process to take place is comparatively minuscule. Another property of the ocean is the presence of currents that keep the water circulating. In the aquarium, proper circulation is necessary to ensure that the temperature is the same throughout the aquarium. It also aids the filtration systems as well. All of this can be achieved through aeration. There are many ways to achieve this. One way is to use a dedicated air pump. They force air through the water column using an airstone. This is quite simple but comes with its cons. The air-stones tend to clog up easily and need replacement quite regularly. A better way of accomplishing this is by ensuring that your main filtration system integrates aeration as well. Filtration systems like trickle filters or ones that have a bio-wheel are excellent at this. Another excellent aeration option is the use of wavemakers. They keep agitating the surface and ensure that there is a proper exchange of gases at the surfaces while also ensuring proper circulation of water as well. They also create a more natural environment for the fish provided the rate of flow is set correctly

 

To sum it up, you need aeration for

 

• Maintaining proper balance of oxygen and other gases in the water
• To ensure proper circulation of water

 

The options you have are

 

• Air-pump and airstone (affordable and simple but tedious to use on a regular basis)
• Integrated into the filtration system itself (the best option for small to mid-sized tanks)
• Wavemakers (The best form of aeration available these days)

 

 

• Heating 
  • Why is it necessary for tropical fish?

 

Before we explain why heating is needed, we need to understand a few things about tropical fishes. Fish, in general, are cold-blooded. This means that they cannot regulate their body temperature by themselves and use their surroundings to do it. So, if their surrounding becomes too cold, they won’t be able to carry out the life-processes they need to stay alive. When it comes to tropical fishes, temperature becomes even more critical. A vast majority of the fishes in the saltwater hobby come from tropical waters. These are those parts of the ocean that stay warm throughout the year and the fishes from here are used to a very narrow range of temperature at all times. Depending on where you live, there can be huge variations in temperature with time. Also, since the home aquarium doesn’t have anywhere close to the same amount of water as the ocean, the temperature can change quite quickly and drastically if the temperature around the aquarium drops. Heaters ensure that the water temperature doesn’t fall below the safe value for your fish ensuring that they stay alive.

 

• Types of heaters

 

There are multiple options when it comes to choosing heaters for a saltwater aquarium. Before we talk about them, let us take a look at the common parts that you will find in all aquarium heaters and what you need to ensure about them:

 

• Heating element: This is what produces the heat and is usually a coil of high-resistance wire. Make sure that the heater is made by a reputed brand. This way you can ensure that the heating element is durable and will heat the aquarium uniformly and won’t cause any sudden and dangerous spikes in temperature.

 

• Temperature control: This is what allows you to set a particular temperature for the aquarium. The value will depend on the species of fish you have in your tank.

 

• Thermostat: This is perhaps the most important part of the heater. It constantly monitors the temperature of the aquarium and will switch on or switch off the heating element depending on the current temperature. This way, the temperature will always stay as close to the value you have set. This is usually achieved through a bimetallic strip or an electronic circuit inside the heater. The former is cheaper but the latter is more dependable and we suggest getting a heater with an electronic thermostat.

 

The heaters themselves can also be divided into three main types:

 

• Hanging or semi-submersible heaters: This is the most primitive form of aquarium heater you can get. The heating element is submerged in the water but the controls are kept above water. We do not recommend getting a hanging heater as it isn’t very efficient and can be quite flimsy to fix. It is also prone to be damaged unintentionally during routine maintenance.

 

• Submersible heater: This is the most common type of aquarium heater and the name is pretty self-explanatory. It is completely submerged and therefore can be placed somewhere out of sight and towards the lower half of the aquarium and near a powerhead or wavemaker for efficient heating. It can also be placed in the sump if you have one.

 

• In-line heater: This is a special type of heater that is installed either in the intake or the outlet pipe of an aquarium. This means that you will need a filtration system with a long enough intake or outlet pipe like a canister filter. It is even more efficient but is more expensive and can only work when water is flowing through the pipe it is installed in.

 

A few safety measures when it comes to aquarium heater:

• Always use suction cups to secure the heater in the place you prefer
• If possible, get heaters with a protective grille to keep your fish and yourself safe
• Have a thermometer installed in the aquarium and keep monitoring regularly to be able to catch a malfunctioning heater before it creates a major problem. Thermometers are inexpensive and you can get one of those that can be stuck to the wall of the aquarium.

What about wattage?

This is quite simple to figure out. If your aquarium has 50 gallons of water or less then use a heater that will provide at least 5 watts per gallon. So, if your aquarium has 20 gallons then the heater should at least be rated at 100 watts. For larger aquariums, aim for 3 watts per gallon. As an example, if you have a 100-gallon aquarium then go for at least 300 watts. You can use multiple heaters to get to the number your aquarium needs.

 

• Lighting 

  Let us now talk about lighting. Some people wrongly assume that lighting isn’t all that important in a fish-only saltwater aquarium. Lighting, on the contrary, is actually quite important for multiple reasons. These include the following:It presents a more natural habitat for the fish: Most tropical fishes come from areas where the sun plays a big role. Different fishes have different lifestyles. Some are active during the day and are known as diurnal while others are active during the night and are known as nocturnal. Therefore, it is important to simulate day and night in the aquarium. This will keep the fish happy while also ensuring that they feed instead of getting spooked and fasting to death.

  Appearances: One of the primary reasons for keeping an aquarium is to look at it. This would not be possible if the aquarium is not lighted up properly. It also has to ensure that the brilliant coloration of the fish is displayed in its full glory.

  Now that we have established the importance of lighting, let us look at the things that you have to look out for in your lighting system. The good news is that lighting up a fish-only saltwater tank is quite straightforward. The most important property is the power of the light usually denoted in ‘watts’. This tells you how efficiently it can light up an aquarium. Too low and there will be dark areas in the aquarium and too bright and it can make the fish appear washed out, promote the growth of unwanted algae, and cause discomfort for the fish. A general rule of thumb is to go for 2 watts per gallon. This is just a general guideline. Some lighting systems like LEDs are more efficient and you can use fewer watts. Another specification that you will come across would be Kelvin. This denotes the wavelength or colors the light would emit. It is a complicated topic so we won’t try to confuse you. Just go for something that is rated between 10,000K and 14,000K. It is also important to keep in mind that it is mostly about aesthetics and you can experiment with different types of lights to figure out what matches your taste the best.

  That brings us to the options you have with regards to the lighting

  • Natural light: This might seem like the most inexpensive and obvious way to light your aquarium. After all, nothing is better than the real deal but the problem is that the natural light that we get in our homes is nowhere close to the intensity that the open seas and oceans get. You could think of placing it in an area without a roof so that the sun beats down on your aquarium’s water without any obstructions. That would be even worse as the water could get heated up, it can evaporate quickly and then there are all the possible dangers of keeping the aquarium in an open area. As for the natural light in our homes, it just isn’t powerful or dependable enough to do justice to your aquarium.
  • Incandescent lights: When it comes to artificial lights, this is perhaps the most basic route you can take. These lights usually have a tungsten filament and generally have a very narrow range when it comes to the wavelength or color. They can also produce a lot of heat and they are the least durable. The upside to using incandescent lights is that they are very affordable and easily available. We, however, do not recommend using incandescent bulbs for saltwater aquariums.
  • Fluorescent lights: This used to be the standard choice for a long time. They are dependable and affordable and offer a decent color range without taking up a lot of space. They do not heat up the water a lot either. They were almost perfect until LEDs came along and improved upon all these properties.
  • CFL: These were the next evolution of the Fluorescent lights. They were even more compact while being just as powerful. They tend to be costlier than Fluorescent lights but are more efficient and thus consume less power. Their color range is similar to that of fluorescent lights.
  • LED: This is the light of choice at present and with good reasons. It is extremely versatile and comes in all sorts of shapes and sizes. It is very easy to customize and build your own lighting system with LEDs. It is easy to program and you can get wonderful lighting effects with minimal effort. Its efficiency is unmatched and your power bills will be a lot more palatable when using LEDs. As far as the color range is concerned, you have a wide plethora of choices available to you and you can have everything from a natural-looking lighting system to one that is psychedelic and bonkers in nature. Your creativity is the limit here.
  • Mercury Vapor and metal halides: If you really want to use spotlights then this is the solution. It can create dramatic effects and is particularly useful if you have a really tall aquarium. It can be quite expensive though and it has a short operational life. It can also increase you power bills significantly. Metal Halides are even more powerful and just as expensive to buy and own. We do not recommend either of these for the home aquarium.

Here is a summary of all the lighting options you can get

 

	Color range	Longevity	Initial Cost	Operational Cost	Suitability
Natural Light	Inconsistent	Very high	None	None	None
Incandescent lights	Narrow	Low	Low	Medium to high	None
Fluorescent lights	Medium	Medium	Low	Medium	Mid-sized aquariums
CFL	Medium	Medium	Medium	Medium	Small aquariums
LED	High	High	Medium to Low	Low	Most home aquariums
Mercury Vapor & Metal Halides	Medium to High	Low	High	Very High	Huge aquariums

 

A few good practices when it comes to lighting a fish-only aquarium:

As we mentioned earlier, lighting in a fish-only tank is all about the aesthetics and the simulation of night and day. So, it is a great idea to keep everything as simple as possible. Until a few years ago, hobbyists needed to use a combination of different types of lights such as fluorescent lights, CFLs, and LEDs. However, recent advancements in LED technology means that they have become a lot more versatile, affordable, and long-lasting. As long as you plan on keeping a fish-only saltwater aquarium go for an all-LED lighting system for all the benefits that we have mentioned above. Also, ensure that the night-day sequence is simulated without fail. There are many affordable devices available that can automate the entire process especially if you are using LEDs. Also, go for strip lights instead of spotlights as they provide more even lighting and offer more flexibility.

 

• Adding Saltwater

 

That brings us to perhaps the most obvious necessity – saltwater. This is where you will run into the conundrum of whether to go the natural route or the artificial route.

 

• Natural or artificial?

 

On the surface, using naturally available seawater might seem like the ideal choice especially if you live near a beach. However, we strongly recommend against it. Even if you live just a few steps away from the beach, lugging all the seawater that you would need regularly won’t be an easy task. Most importantly, most of the seawater near human settlements will have a lot of contaminants even if it appears cleans. In short, the disadvantages of using natural seawater far outweigh the advantages.

 

• How to make your own salt water?

 

So, the ideal way to go is to use artificial saltwater. It is important to remember that it is a little more complicated to make than mixing some table salt with regular water. Table salt is highly refined and doesn’t have all the minerals needed to keep a saltwater aquarium healthy. Suitable saltwater for aquariums isn’t too difficult to make either and here is a step by step process on how to do it.

 

Supplies you will need: Marine salt, water conditioners, tap water, a container to carry out the mixing in, and a hydrometer or refractometer.

 

• Step 1: Take the container and rinse it – Ensure that the container hasn’t been used for anything else.

 

• Step 2: Add tap water to the container – Add the water conditioners as per the instruction on the bottle. These conditioners will remove all the additives that are usually present in tap water but can be harmful to your fish. These conditioners are simple to use.

 

• Step 3: Add the marine salt – Adding the salt is a bit more nuanced and you need to avoid ball-parking it and that is where the hydrometer or refractometer comes in. Most marine salts will come with instructions regarding how much salt you will need per gallon. Mix the recommended amount of salt for the water you have. Check with the hydrometer and ensure that the specific gravity is as close to 1.025. If you are using a refractometer, then aim for 35 ppt. It is more then add some water and if it is less then add some salt. Also, ensure that all the salt is dissolved before taking a measurement.

 

There you have it. It is as simple as that to make your own saltwater. If you are doing it for the first time and need to make saltwater for the entire aquarium then mixing the water in small portions in a container will be time-consuming and difficult. In this case, you can use the aquarium itself to do the mixing. Just ensure to use a smaller amount of salt as some of the space inside the aquarium will be taken up by the sand and decoration. Just ensure that the specific gravity is on point.

 

• Do you need to add supplements in a fish-only saltwater aquarium?

 

When you are at the fish store, you might come across supplements for saltwater aquariums. As long as you are keeping only fish, you do not need these supplements but if you plan on keeping corals and invertebrates then you will need reef supplements and calcium chloride supplements.

 

• Getting the water perfect for fish!

 

• The Nitrogen Cycle:

 

• What is it?

 

The nitrogen cycle is perhaps the most important aspect of keeping a saltwater aquarium or for that matter, any aquarium. If you have ever heard of or experienced having all your fish dying in a new aquarium within the first two days, then it is most probably due to the absence of the nitrogen cycle. We touched on this briefly when we talked about biological filtration earlier and here is a detailed account of how it works.

 

Fish, like all things living produce waste. The uneaten food also collects as waste. Fish don’t have the convenient solution of simply flushing down all this waste and it has to be taken care of naturally. The waste products can be divided into Carbon Dioxide and Nitrogen-containing compounds. The former is easy to deal with as it simply escapes back into the atmosphere as long as you have proper aeration. The latter, however, is the issue. As nitrogenous compounds collect, they start releasing ammonia which is extremely toxic. It is also next to impossible to effectively remove this ammonia using some form of chemical or mechanical filtration without affecting the overall water chemistry. That is where tiny little friendly-bacteria come in.

 

These bacteria come in two groups. The first group is able to convert ammonia into nitrites. Nitrites are less harmful to fish but still dangerous and they too cannot be easily removed. The second batch of bacteria helps in this regard as they convert these nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are harmful to fish only in large concentrations. You can keep their concentration under a safe limit by doing regular water changes. This entire process of converting nitrogenous waste from ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates is known as the nitrogen cycle.

 

• How to start it?

 

This is an easy step with the most difficult part of it being the need to be patient. It is only natural to want colorful fish swimming in your tank as soon as you get it but you need to wait. Depending on the method that you employ it can take up to six weeks before your aquarium is ready to be able to house fish. To get this nitrogen cycle established you can use one of the following methods.

 

• Using hardy fish: This is perhaps the most ancient method of doing this and we are only mentioning it for information’s sake. There are some fish that are very hardy and could withstand the ammonia and nitrite that will collect before the nitrogen cycle gets established. Their waste slowly starts the cycle and eventually, in about four weeks the cycle will be properly established. We do not recommend this method and that is why we won’t even mention the names of the fishes that are usually used for this purpose. It almost always ends up killing some if not all of these fishes which is inhumane and hence should not be done.

 

• Using live rock and sand: This is one of our preferred methods of cycling a new tank. Live rock and sand as we had mentioned earlier contain these beneficial bacteria and hence they do not take long to be established. Add the live rock or sand and keep the filtration system running and in about two weeks your aquarium will be properly cycled.

 

• Using seed media from an already established aquarium: If you do not want to or do not have access to live rock and sand then you can go for this option. You will need some gravel, sand or filter media from a tank that already has a properly established nitrogen cycle. This method also yields results in about two weeks. Just ensure that the aquarium that you are getting your seed material from is disease-free and belongs to someone you can trust.

 

• Using commercial accelerators: The easiest and quickest method of establishing the nitrogen cycle in your aquarium is to buy accelerators. These usually come in a sachet. All you have to do is mix the contents of the sachet in lukewarm water and add the mixture to your aquarium. It contains both types of bacteria needed for the complete nitrogen cycle and this can help establish the cycle as quickly as just a week. Just ensure that the accelerator is well within its best-use period.

 

• How to test it?

 

Unfortunately, the bacteria do not wave a green flag once the nitrogen cycle is up and running and there are no visual cues that will tell you that the required bacteria colonies are established and it is safe to add the fish. You need the help of testing kits to ascertain if the nitrogen cycle is indeed working its magic in your aquarium. You will need kits that test for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates for this purpose. These are widely available at most fish stores that sell saltwater aquarium supplies. They are pretty easy to use. Usually, they are in the form of a paper strip that you immerse in your aquarium’s water. They will change color and then using the color chart that will accompany these strips, you can determine the level of each of these chemicals. The nitrogen cycle will be established in the following steps.

 

1. Ammonia level keeps increasing while nitrites and nitrates are almost absent.

 

1. Ammonia levels start dropping while nitrites start rising. There will be little to no change in the nitrate levels.

 

• Ammonia levels become minimal while nitrites start dropping and nitrates finally start increasing slowly.

 

1. Ammonia and nitrites become negligible with nitrates slowly keeps rising and this signals the establishment of the nitrogen cycle

 

Depending on the method you use, each of these steps can take different periods of time. You should keep testing for all these chemicals regularly as well. Any spike in ammonia or nitrites should be immediately dealt with. You can use a commercially available neutralizer for this purpose. Once the nitrate levels get above 25 ppm, you should do a partial water change.

 

• Salinity: 
  • Why it’s important, what is it and how to test?

 

Salinity is defined as the actual concentration of the dissolved ions in water. In laymen’s terms, it is the measure of how salty the water is. This is an important property because the bodies of saltwater fish are designed for a particular salinity. Any more or any less and their life processes will start to get affected. Assuming that you prepare your own saltwater, the salinity should remain fairly consistent. However, as water evaporates, this salinity keeps increasing and you will need to add more water to bring it back down. To do this, you should be able to measure salinity and there are two ways of doing that.

 

Refractometer: This used to be quite expensive but is rather affordable now. It has a prism that bends light by a certain angle depending on the salinity. This is used to measure the salinity levels. In your saltwater aquarium, aim for a value of 34 to 35 ppt. If you can spend a bit more then go for a digital refractometer as they tend to be more accurate and convenient to use.

 

Hydrometer: This is the old-school method of measuring salinity. It is a pretty straightforward device to use. You have to keep one thing in mind when using a hydrometer. All hydrometers are rated for a particular temperature. So, you will need the current temperature of the water that you are measuring the salinity of and then you will need to get the actual salinity value using a conversion table that is usually supplied with the hydrometer. If not, finding one online is quite easy. At 77°F, aim for a value of between 1.023 and 1.025.

 

 

• pH 
  • Why it’s important, what is it and how to test? 

pH measures how acidic or basic the water is. It is measured on a scale that starts at 0 and goes all the way to 14. 0 signifies the highest level of acidity and 14 the highest level of alkalinity. 7 is neither acidic nor basic. Saltwater fish are used to a certain level of pH. pH value can be affected by a large number of factors. Common ones include the composition of the tap water you use, waste produced by the fish, and CO₂ released by fish during respiration.

 

pH can be tested by using a kit and it works similar to most strip-based test kits. The ideal pH value for your aquarium will depend totally on the species of fish you have. Usually, a value between 7.6 and 8.4 is needed in most saltwater aquariums which is slightly on the alkaline side.

 

If the pH isn’t what your aquarium needs, then you can use one of the following methods to bring it back into the safe range.

 

To increase pH:

 

Add a solution of baking soda. Do this with small quantities while measuring the pH after each dosage. Another method is to use commercially available pH balancing products.

 

To decrease pH:

Add small quantities of lemon juice or vinegar or a commercially available solution meant for saltwater aquariums.

 

Usually, you won’t need to do any of this as long as you do regular water changes. Nevertheless, it is very important to keep testing pH regularly to stay on top of any developments.

 

• KH (Alkalinity) and GH (hardness) 
  • Why it’s important, what is it and how to test?

 

Saltwater contains various chemicals including carbonates and bicarbonates and these are essential for the good health of your aquarium. Any changes in pH can be dangerous to your fish. That is where KH comes in. It is also referred to as alkalinity and should not be confused with the alkalinity associated with pH. KH value does not increase or decrease pH. What it does is protect pH. Think of it as a shield. You see, most of the waste products generated in a saltwater aquarium are acidic in nature. This means that they would constantly reduce the pH eventually killing off the fish. What KH or alkalinity does is that it neutralizes these acidic agents while ensuring that pH stays at a consistent value. Though KH may not have any direct impact on the fish, it is still very important.

 

GH has a similar effect and it refers to general hardness and refers to the amount of magnesium and calcium dissolved in the water. In most cases, GH and KH are closely related and are found in similar concentrations. It also aids pH in the same way as KH.

 

Measuring KH is again done by test kits which are pretty straightforward to use. The important thing is to ensure that it is maintained between 8 – 12 dKH. You don’t have to measure GH separately in a fish only tank.

 

If KH falls below this value, then you can increase it by either doing a water change or using a commercially available alkalinity buffer meant for saltwater aquariums.

 

• O₂ and CO₂

 

• Why it’s important, what is it and how to test?

 

All fishes need oxygen for their life-processes. They get this oxygen from the water itself. As long as you have a saltwater aquarium and it has proper aeration and surface agitation you do not have to worry about oxygen levels. Just for reference sake, the oxygen levels should be at least 26.5 milligrams/gallon.

 

Carbon Dioxide is the gas the fishes respire out and any excess of it can have a profoundly negative effect on the aquarium. It can decrease the pH considerably. It can also erode KH and GH levels. Again, this won’t be an issue as long as there is proper aeration and filtration. You do not need a testing kit for this either.

 

• Calcium

 

Calcium levels are quite important in a coral tank but in a fish only tank, it doesn’t need to be tested as sufficient levels are maintained just by doing regular water changes.

 

• Phosphate

 

Phosphate enters the aquarium through the excretory process of the fish. It doesn’t directly affect the fish but it does promote algae growth and an algae bloom is the last thing you want in your aquarium. This too gets released into the atmosphere as long as there is proper aeration. Its value should be maintained below 0.10 ppm. If it gets close to or above this value, then do a partial water change.

 

• Copper

 

Copper does not usually get into your aquarium unless you use copper pipes or copper-based medication. Excess quantities of copper can be harmful to fish and that is why it is best to treat fish in a separate hospital tank. A copper testing kit will warn you when the levels become too high which can be fixed with a water change.

 

• The importance of keeping a log to monitor water quality.

 

By now you must have gotten a fair idea of all the different chemicals that you have to monitor. This has to be done on a regular basis and most importantly you should maintain a log of all the measurements you take. You can do this in a notebook or on a digital device. The reason behind this is that most disasters in aquariums that step from chemical issues usually start out slowly. If you have a log, then you will be able to detect a problem while it is still in its early stages and thus it can be rectified before it is too late. It will also give you an idea of when you have to check next. If anything inexplicable does happen then the logs will provide clues as to what went wrong so that you can avoid similar issues in the future.

 

Here is a short summary of all the different water parameters you need to look out for

 

 

Parameter	How to measure	Ideal range for fish-only saltwater aquarium	Frequency of Testing
Temperature	Thermometer	75°F to 82°F (depending on fish species)	Daily
Salinity	Hydrometer or refractometer	35 ppt	Once every 2-3 days
Ammonia	Ammonia Testing Kit	Less than 0.10 ppm	Once every two to three weeks / After adding new fish
Nitrites	Nitrite Testing Kit	Less than 0.10 ppm	Once every two to three weeks / After adding new fish
Nitrates	Nitrate Testing Kit	Less than 25 ppm	Once every two to three weeks
pH	pH Testing Kit	7.6 – 8.4 (depending on fish species)	Once a month
KH	KH Testing Kit	8-12 dKH	Once a month
GH	No need to Test	N/A	N/A
O2	No need to Test	N/A	N/A
CO2	No need to Test	N/A	N/A
Calcium	No need to Test	N/A	N/A
Phosphate	Phosphate Testing Kit	Less than 0.10 ppm	Once every two month
Copper	No need to test	N/A	N/A

 

 

• Decorating and Furnishing your Tank

 

No tank is just complete without some visual embellishments and that is what we are going to talk about next. Keep in mind that this is a highly subjective thing and all we are offering are some suggestions that work for most people. However, you are free to decorate and beautify your aquarium as you choose to. Just ensure that whatever you do, it is safe for the fish and makes them feel at home.

 

• Background

 

The background of the aquarium plays a big role in its appearance. This is a blank canvas and you can use it to unleash your creative potential. Some of the commonly used backgrounds are as follows.

 

• Latex paint: This is perhaps the simplest solution you have in front of you. They are quite inexpensive, relatively easy to apply and pretty permanent. That last property could be an advantage or a disadvantage for you depending on what you are looking for. The colors commonly chosen are black or blue. Black brings out the colors of your fishes quite nicely while adding a bit of depth to the aquarium. Blue tends to give the aquarium a bit more of a natural look.

 

• Stick-on backgrounds: These are the commercially available backgrounds that are relatively inexpensive and they offer a bit more range when it comes to the choices you have. They can depict an underwater scene or can be monochromatic. They can be fixed to the aquarium using tape or some sort of adhesive. Some even have a self-adhesive surface. These are easy to remove and thus they give you the freedom to change the background whenever you want to.

 

• 3D background: If you want your aquarium to really stand out then this is the way to go. These tend to be expensive and rather difficult to obtain. You can go the DIY route but that can be too complicated for many.

 

• No background: This is ideal for aquariums that are placed in a central location and are visible from all sides. This is best in tanks with minimal plumbing.

 

• Substrate

 

The substrate isn’t just about the visuals. It is very important for your aquarium’s health. This is doubly true if you use an undergravel filter. The most common form of substrate is crushed corals. It acts as a nice buffer while also giving the aquarium a natural look. The grain size is important if you use an undergravel filter. If it is too small, then it can clog up the filter. As for the depth, we recommend a depth of at least 2 inches. You can also use live sand which, as we have talked about previously, has a lot of benefits.

 

• Rocks

 

Rocks are purely for aesthetics in a saltwater tank unless you are using live rocks. Even then, their primary purpose is to provide the fish with a more natural environment while also making your aquarium more attractive. When it comes to rocks, you have three main options

 

• Live rock: This is something that will aid in the biological filtration while looking pretty good too. They tend to be the most expensive option. If you add live rock, then ensure that it is of the cultured variety.

 

• Tufa: This is made from calcium carbonate and can be molded easily. This is a nice alternative to using live rock.

 

• Lava Rock: These are artificially manufactured rocks that aren’t as heavy as they look. They are quite porous and thus offer plenty of space for micro-organisms to live while displacing a lower volume of water as well. They also have an attractive look. They tend to be somewhat expensive.

 

• Dry Rock: This is perhaps your cheapest bet. It is the rock that is mined for aquarium use and comes in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

 

We recommend using a combination of different rocks as per your visual taste and your budget.

 

• Ornaments

 

This is where you can really go bananas. If you like the look of a coral reef tank but do not want the hassles of maintaining one, then you can go for very realistic looking coral ornaments. Then there is the wide plethora of ornaments available that can depict everything from a sunken ship and treasure chests to objects from a science fiction movie. In short, you can use these ornaments to tell a visual story through your aquarium. We have seen aquariums that depict everything from a famous movie scene to a famous monument. Just ensure that the ornaments you use are safe for a saltwater aquarium.

 

• Tips for decorating, designing your tank:

 

As we had mentioned earlier, designing and decorating your saltwater aquarium is a very personal affair. However, if you are just starting out then you can follow a few guidelines to get the look you are after:

 

• Do not go overboard.
• Ensure that all your decorations are fish friendly. Avoid things with sharp edges and corners. They should also not leech any chemicals into the aquarium
• Try to decorate around a theme as that will give you more creative control while also making the aquarium visually appealing
• Look at pictures of as many saltwater aquariums as you can to get inspirations and ideas for your own aquarium
• Always do the decorating with your long-term goals in mind. If you want to keep changing stuff, then go for temporary and cheaper solutions. If you want something that lasts a long time, then look for more permanent solutions.
• Be patient and do not be afraid to experiment with the looks of your tank.

 

• Choosing your fish!

 

That brings us to the part that you have probably been waiting for – the fish. This is also one of the most important steps on your journey towards keeping a successful saltwater aquarium. Choosing the right fish can make all the difference between you enjoying a fulfilling hobby that lasts your lifetime to something that turns out to be a nightmare and something that you will spend the rest of your life blocking from your mind.

 

Here are some of the things that you need to consider when choosing your fish

 

• Maximum size and rate of growth: Fishes have the incredible ability to grow throughout their lifespan. Some grow quicker than others. Taking both into consideration is very important when choosing the fish. Just because something looks cute and manageable at 2 inches in the shop won’t mean that it will stay like that after one year. Trying to find a new home for fish that have outgrown your tank can be a difficult and harrowing task. It is best to avoid such an experience by going for fish that will never outgrow your tank. Another thing to keep in mind is that fishes are opportunistic feeders. They will eat almost anything that will fit in their mouths. So, the smallest fish should be at least bigger than the mouth of the largest fish. It is a good idea to get fish of similar size that will grow to a similar size at a similar rate to avoid headaches and unpleasant surprises.

 

• Disposition: Just like people, different fishes can have different personalities. However, most fishes of the same species behave somewhat similarly. Some species can be territorial and very aggressive. Avoid them at this stage. They need a lot of experience to be housed properly. Go for fishes that generally aren’t territorial and won’t harass or attack other fish.

 

• Activity: Fishes can be active during the day or the night or at both times. Just be aware of the activity level of the fish that you are getting so you can feed and house them properly.

 

• Diet: This is also very important. Some fish tend to be very picky eaters and will only eat live food or a certain type of food. Go for dishes that are easy to feed and will readily accept commercially prepared fish food. The diet of the fish you will also have a big impact on the aquarium’s running cost. Ensure that it is within your budget.

 

• Ideal water parameters: We have talked about all the different parameters to look out for. Different fishes feel at home at different levels of these parameters depending on their natural habitat. Choose fish that all have overlapping requirements when it comes to the various water parameters.

 

• Species recommendations for beginners and why?

 

It should be clear by now that you cannot go shopping for fish willy-nilly. As there are so many species of fish that are popular in the saltwater aquarium trade, it can become quite the arduous task to choose the right fish if you are a beginner. So, we have compiled a list below of some of the best fishes for beginners.

 

Fish	What makes them great for beginners	Max Size	Food	Minimum tank size
Damselfish	Small, hardy, inexpensive, and easy to feed	3”	Omnivore	20 gallons
Clownfish	Peaceful towards other fish, small, hardy, easy to feed	2”-3.5”	Omnivore	15-30 gallons
Gobies and Blenies	Hardy, active, feed on algae, small	3”-5”	Carnivore	20-55 gallons
Cardinalfish	Hardy, peaceful, active, pretty	3”	Carnivore	20 gallons
Firefish	Peaceful, great indicator of water quality	3”	Carnivore	20 gallons
Small Wrasses	Small and peaceful	3”	Carnivore	20 gallons
Tangs and surgeonfish	Peaceful and easy to feed	6”	Herbivore	75 gallons

 

 

• How many fish should you put in a tank?

 

This is a very critical part of fishkeeping. It can be very easy to get lost in the flow of things and start buying one fish after another. If you have too many fish it can cause a large number of issues including increased aggression. Another major worry is putting too much load on the filtration system and the nitrogen cycle. Waste will be produced at a rate that is higher than it can be filtered out and that will cause the buildup of dangerous chemicals like ammonia which will eventually kill the fish.

 

The common rule of thumb is to give at least 2 gallons for every inch of fish. A safer value would be 5 gallons for each inch of fish. Which means that if you have a 20-gallon aquarium, keep at the most five 2” fish. Ideally only keep two 2” fish. Also, stock your aquarium slowly. Add one or two fish at a time and wait for the aquarium to stabilize and then add more fish. Adding a lot of fish together can suddenly overwhelm the life-support systems of your aquarium which can result in the death of all the fish.

 

• Find a reputable place to buy fish:

 

This is very important for a number of reasons that are listed below

 

• A good place will ensure that the fish you get are healthy and disease-free: Countless hobbyists have faced despair and sadness because they bought a fish from the wrong place that ends up infecting all the healthy fish in their tank as well.
• They will ensure that the fish comes from an environmentally viable source: Many fish that are popular in the saltwater aquarium trade are rapidly declining in the wild. Reputed fish-sellers will ensure that either the fish are captive-bred or are collected in an environmentally conscious manner.
• They will have the proper know-how to guide you: Good fish-sellers will always keep the best interests of the fish in mind. That is why they can help you in avoiding getting incompatible species or fish that can be too difficult to care for.

 

• How to choose healthy fish:

 

Choosing fish that are healthy to begin with will ensure that they will live long in your aquarium. Doing so can be quite straightforward and here are a few things to keep in mind.

 

1. Ensure that the aquarium the fish is housed in is clean and without any dead or dying fish
2. The fish should be active and should not be rubbing itself against the substrate or the ornaments as that can be the indication of parasites or diseases

• Avoid fish with spots, cuts, bruises, missing fins and pretty much any other physical abnormality

1. If the fish in question is wild-caught, then ask the store owner to feed the fish so you can be sure that they are used to feeding and living in an aquarium

 

 

• Acclimate fish to the tank:

 

We all know the feeling of suddenly stepping out into the sun after having spent some time in an air-conditioned room. For us it isn’t that bad as we are warm blooded. Fish by virtue of being cold blooded can suffer badly if there is a sudden change in their environment. When you get new fish, it will most probably be transported to your home in plastic bags. You might be excited to get the fish in your tank and bask in its glory but if you want the fish to live then it is paramount to acclimate it to your aquarium’s water parameters. Acclimation can be done by following these steps:

 

1. Float the bag without opening it on top of the water inside your aquarium for 15 minutes
2. Open the bag

• Add a cup of water from your aquarium into the bag every 15 minutes. Repeat this process two-three times more

1. Net the fish over a container and gently release the fish into the tank. We would suggest not to simply invert the bag into the tank as the water from the shop can have contaminants and harmful microbes.
2. Keep a close eye on the new fish over the next few days to ensure that they are healthy. If they start showing signs of distress or disease, get in touch with a vet.

 

• Quarantine and hospital tank:

 

If you can afford it then have a smaller tank setup with basic filtration and having water parameters that are as close to your main tank as possible. This will be used to house new fish for about 4-6 weeks. This is known as the quarantine tank and will ensure that the new fish does not introduce any parasites or germs into your main tank. This can be especially helpful with wild-caught fish. It will also give the fish a less stressful environment to acclimate without being bothered by other fish.

You can also set up a third tank as a hospital tank to treat sick or injured fish.

 

• What’s next and other needed supplies?

 

You will need a few additional things to make your life easier when it comes to the maintenance and upkeep of the aquarium.

 

• Necessary cleaning materials:

 

• A clean unused bucket: This will be used to mix saltwater and to temporarily house fish. It is important that it is unused as used buckets will have chemical residues that can alter the chemical balance of your aquarium. It should also be able to house a decent volume of water and should be sturdy.
• Siphons: This is what you will use to get water out of the aquarium during water changes. Go for one that has a vacuum tube at the end as it can be used to suck the debris from in-between and under the substrate.
• Magnetic glass scrubber: This will allow you to keep the inside walls of the aquarium clean without having to get yourself all wet and without the fear of scratching the aquarium.

 

• Nets

 

Every now and then, you will need to remove fish from your aquarium or add new fish into your aquarium and for that you will need a net. These are quite inexpensive and easily available. Just make sure to get one that isn’t too small or too large. Ideally, they should be easy to get into your aquarium as well as net your fish with relative ease. Use nets sparingly though as fish can get spooked and can thus injure themselves.

 

• Conclusion

 

That brings us to the end of what has been hopefully an enriching and informative read. Keeping a saltwater aquarium can be one of the most fulfilling experiences you can have provided it is done the right way. We are guessing that by now you have a fair understanding of how to go about the hobby and art of saltwater fishkeeping. We would like to welcome you to years of unbridled joy and satisfaction as you get to bring a little piece of the wonderful underwater world right into your home.